Dishoom’s Chicken Ruby used a lot of oil, brace yourself; this recipe calls for 300ml. I skimmed the ingredients list and thought “hmm, maybe I’ll cut that down” then immediately saw the following, as if they’d read my mind:
Do not be tempted to reduce the quantity of oil, as it is necessary for the proper caramelisation of the onions. The oil is also useful for storing the masala in the fridge, as it forms an airtight barrier on the surface. This can be skimmed off when you come to use the masala. You could discard the oil at that point, or keep it to make something else — first-class fried eggs, for example.
I did as told, although I did halve the recipe. Once all the onions are cut, the oil doesn’t seem too excessive (there are a lot of onions; I’d be tempted to buy frozen, pre-diced in future).
Keep a hawk-eye on the onions while they fry. If they burn, you’ll need to start again. The book specifies that they should be:
…diced finely — a greater surface area allows for more caramelisation… the heat should be fairly high. Pay attention, and stir the onions very frequently. They need to cook evenly, without any parts of the mixture beginning to stick or burn. If this begins to happen, add a spoonful of water, and loosen any stuck pieces… The end result should be a dark, savoury, rich brown (not a light golden colour) with plenty of depth as well as sweetness.
The onions in the book are the colour of sun-dried tomatoes. The instructions say that they’ll take 25-30 minutes to caramelise. Be warned that you’ll need to babysit them constantly to achieve this colour in this time-frame. I use a lower heat while I get on with other jobs but they take absolutely ages to cook this way.
A quick tip, if you have the time (possibly while the onions are cooking): make Dishoom's ginger and garlic pastes. Once you’ve diced your way through 1.2 kilos of onions, weighing out ginger and garlic is a godsend. The book states that the pastes stay fresh for up to 10 days and can be used in loads of other dishes (obligatory botulism warning; please read — this USDA article specifies 7 days max).
If you can't be bothered, I’d use around 8-10 decent-sized garlic cloves (from a normal bulb, not a giant one) and 3-ish tablespoons of chopped ginger.
Once you've made the onion-tomato masala, the baked bean recipe is a doddle. If I may, and it's possibly a big ask after the pastes: make Dishoom's garam masala. Then use it to make their House Black Daal. If you've made any Dishoom dishes at home and found them to be good, but not quite restaurant standard, the garam masala will make a big difference.
The onion-tomato masala keeps for a week in the fridge, or several months in the freezer.
Dishoom: From Bombay with Love (affiliate link).
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